E-Bike Battery Care And Maintenance


– The heart of the eBike is a battery. These things are great devices, storing a lot of energy in a small space. If looked after properly, these things can last a long, long time, but you need to take care of
them on and off your bike. Today’s video we’re gonna
be looking at all those tips and avoiding that expensive replacement. (digital explosions) So, first things first,
there can be a lot of time that passes from when
this battery’s activated or made in the factory
to the time it reaches the manufacturers, and
even more time by the time it reaches you, so first things first, get that battery on charge
as soon as you receive it. So, lots of different
manufacturers mount their battery lots of different ways. However it’s mounted in your frame, just make sure that connection and the way it holds in there is secure. If that battery falls out,
hits the ground and cracks, it’s game over and you’ve got to replace that expensive battery. Lithium batteries are generally
best kept fully charged, even after a short little ride. If you do regularly flatten that battery it’s really gonna struggle
to hold a full charge and keep ’em topped up. A good little tip as well
is don’t leave that charger plugged in for hours and
hours, or days and days away in your workshop or
wherever you keep your bike. Soon as that battery is
topped up remove that charger. If there happens to be
a charger malfunction this battery could actually overheat. Really nice way of doing
that is by actually putting a timer, one of the ones
you plug into the wall, just put four or five hours
on there and that should be enough to charge any battery. As soon as that, obviously, overruns and times out you’re gonna
have no power going to that. So, if you’re using that
battery in the winter or below freezing, it’s
really advisable to bring that battery inside and actually charge it up at room temperature. Some batteries won’t actually
even charge if below freezing. Just check that you’re
not trying to charge it while it’s too cold. Also, out on these rides
you might find that a battery sleeve or a thermal
cover will actually increase and hold that battery’s core temperature. It should in theory give
you a bit more range too. For the best overall health
and life span of that battery it’s not a good idea to go
sticking that battery on charge as soon as you get back from your ride. It’s advisable just to let
that battery have a rest period it’s letting that battery
and the chemistry go from a state of discharge to a state of charge. Just give it around
half an hour to get back in the run of things, then
stick it back on charge. There’s little danger from a wet battery. Actually, the battery is
one of the most waterproof parts on your eBike. It’s actually got an IP-67 rating. That means it can be fully submerged, apparently without any damage. Something that I wouldn’t go testing out down at your local lake, but
they are fairly water-proof. Just keep an eye on it’s contact points. If they do become corroded or any rust and things get in there, just
give ’em a quick wipe round. Keep it nice and dry, get rid
of that oxidization or rust anything like that cause
that can cause problems when it comes to connecting that
connector to the frame as well. Just keep an eye on that. Best bet is just to wipe them
down with a nice damp cloth not getting them to wet. So let’s talk about
transporting that battery safely when it comes to your eBike. A lot of manufacturers recommend to remove that battery before traveling. It’s more if you get
involved in an accident or your battery isn’t secured properly and it goes bouncing off and
hitting someone out on the road and what I like to do is
basically wrap this battery in a towel, stick it
underneath my passenger seat that way I know it’s not
gonna get rattling around in the back of the van, fall off, or smash into some seats when I brake. Also, remember not to
stick that thing up on the passenger shelf or on the back seat, if this battery hits you
in the back of the head when you brake heavy, you’re
certainly gonna know about it. You might notice a few little
screws, nuts, and bolts holding these batteries together, but whatever you do, don’t even think about trying to open these up. Extremely dangerous, highly flammable. Lithium powder’s one of the most flammable things known to man, so if you do suspect a battery problem, take
it back to your dealer and get it sorted in the proper way. So, let’s talk about damaged
batteries on your eBike. If you’ve crashed or hit that battery hard some of the cells inside
can become damaged and that cell can pass
on to the next cell, the next cell and all
the way up that battery could end up being affected
and then heating up to extreme temperatures,
so if you’re suspicious about that battery in any way, get it back to your dealer A-S-A-P. A lithium battery is always best stored in the nice, cool conditions. Batteries are quite like us they don’t like extreme temperatures. Things between minus 10 and
above 60 degrees Celsius should be avoided. Just try and keep that battery
somewhere nice and cool. Nothing too extreme. If you know you’re not
gonna be using that battery or eBike for a long time it’s
really worth thinking about how you’re storing that battery. A good way of storing it
is keep about 80% charge in that battery, it varies
from different manufacturers, but about 60 to 80% is
really good charge to keep that battery at. Ideally if you can keep
it somewhere nice and cool like we talked about earlier and keep topping it up
every few weeks as well. Just strain a little
trickle in there as well is gonna help keep that capacity levels in that battery topped up. Okay, so just to conclude
the main points from today are keeping that battery
between 60 to 80% topped up if you’re not gonna be using
that battery for a long time. If you are, just keep topping
it up all the time as well. Don’t put it in extreme
temperature conditions. Basically, if you take
care of that battery, it’s gonna look after you too. So, I really hope you’ve
enjoyed today’s video about batteries. If you’ve enjoyed today’s
video don’t forget to check out how motors work with Steve up here. Also, if you’re wondering
how far you can get from one of these things, check out a ride where I
did a hundred kilometers on one battery, down here as well. Don’t forget to subscribe to EMBN. We’ve got loads of cool content on here. Give us a thumbs up if
you enjoyed today’s video. If I’ve missed anything
out about battery care, put it in the comments below. We love to see your comments too. See ya in the next one.

31 thoughts on “E-Bike Battery Care And Maintenance

  1. The Giant Yamaha battery is shipped in hibernation state, which switches off when first charged by dealer as part of PDI

  2. Interesting video, thanks. You suggest keeping the battery topped up but I noticed the warranty on my 2019 turbo Levo battery is up to 200 charging cycles so if I top it up after every short ride am I using up one of those charging cycles? I can get easily get 4 shortish rides out of a single charge if I let the battery run down. Am I understanding this correctly??

  3. Im pretty sure you shouldnt leave the battery fully charged for too long either, you should always try to time it so you are riding asap after charge finishes.

  4. Have you tried to use a chemical hand warmer in that battery sleeve to keep the battery warm during a cold weather ride? Would it give you a better range?

  5. Do you know how to install a USB port on a Shimano e8000 like the one in canyon neuron : on: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/-/32834629048.html

  6. "CARE" .. kidding me?
    As simple as that:
    charge your battery – then ride your bike – charge battery again – ride bike again – repeat, repeat, spring, summer, autumn, winter
    BATTERY SLEAVE !?!? really ?!? 🤣 Ride your bike – battery will get warm by itself 👍🏻

  7. Oh man, the amount of false info in this video mixed with some usable tips is hair raising. If you really care, please do look up a datasheet for Panasonics 18650 cells /E-Engineer out.

  8. Li-po ( we use polymer bags so Po ) are the same batteries we use in model flying and we use them hard so know what to do to keep them putting out their max current and capacity.

    NEVER! store them at 100% charge
    First reason is lifespan.
    Although they do not have memory like old rechargeable batteries they will loose max amp output and capacity over time.
    You're ok if you're intending to use them the next day but anything more than a week and you'll want a storage charge.
    I'm assuming most bike chargers won't have this feature but it's 60-80% as mentioned, about 3/4 on your indicator lights will be fine.
    They have a very low self discharge rate so should be ok for a few months if left at 80% at room temp.
    Just check those lights every month or two.

    Second reason is overcharging.
    If charged when cold or in the shed if you bring them inside or it warms up you may risk going over voltage and harming your cells.
    Very doubtful it'll cause a fire but not worth the risk.

    On that note never charge in the frame or unattended
    Lithium batteries no matter how smart the charger "could" catch fire and they provide their own fuel.
    Our little plane batteries have lead to houses and garages/cars being lost so god knows what a large bike battery could do.
    You should be able to get lipo fire safe bags in a size enough for these batteries and are perfect for charging and storing in.
    Try to charge on a large clear fire proof surface with nothing combustible nearby. ( ie your wooden bench )

  9. I am pretty sure you are wrong with long storage on the Batteries. The batteries direct from the manufacturer are charged to 20% only. I am told this puts the battery into a sort of sleep mode for long term, as the batteries are made many months before sold and they do not know when the first full charge will be.

  10. The battery ‘knees’ are the start of the battery stress points, that is towards empty and full, subject to cell voltage.

  11. Unless i missed it in the video, the single most important issue for battery health is to ensure that if you run your battery very low, always make sure it is charged within 24 hours and never ever leave the battery in storage for prolonged periods at a rate below around 30%.

  12. How to use a battery sleeve on a 2019 ? Levo
    Whould it be possible to insulate the frame in any way ?

    For the cold rides out ?

  13. Main misinformation to me was suggesting at 00:52 seconds into the video, "best to keep your battery fully charged" which is almost as bad as keeping it fully discharged long term, but then Chris corrected that later in the video at 4:58 to say it should be stored at around 60 to 80% when not in use which i DO agree with. Also he talks of waiting for 1/2 hour before recharging after discharge , i would have thought the actual reason was to allow the battery to cool down from use because when you stop using the battery its no longer discharging. Heat is the enemy of these batteries and charging them in below Zero Centigrade e.g. Freezing point of water is also a no no . I love that Chris mentioned a timer , i also use a timer to charge back to 60% storage after use and also a timer like Chris does to cut off the charger an hour or so after full charge as a safety feature, i can delay the start of charge by hours and set the time it will charge for based on exp of how long it takes to get from say 30% to 60% on my battery , aprox 1 hour at 4A on 504Wh, or 3 hours odd to get 100% if i planned to go right back out again. Have a look here for a very deatiled account of our ebike batteries and why i do what i do based on solid data https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries

  14. 1. Keep the battery at 50% for long time storage.
    2.For short time storage 30-80% is good. Charge full before next useage.
    3. Battery lifetime can be extended a lot if you always stay within 20-80%. Get yourself a volt meter + a timer or a good charger like the Cycle Satiator to take control.

  15. My bosch powerpack 500 battery wont charge, stuck with 2 flashing LED's,
    I've tried resetting battery with pressing on off button.
    Really disappointed after only two weeks of ownership, Any ideas?

  16. Parts of this video approach the truth but others are so misleading as to be reckless, for example at 00:52 : "lithium batteries are generally best kept fully charged". I expect that most people will interpret "fully charged" and "topped-up" mentioned later to mean charge to 100% of maximum voltage.

    Of course most ebike riders I've met have forgotten whatever they learned in grade10 physics class, especially the difference between a ratio such as voltage and a quantity such as energy in watt-hours, and they tend to equate voltage with battery capacity. This is an approximation which is somewhat useful regarding lead acid batteries but not very much when it comes to the typical lithium e-bike batteries.

    What is true of lead acid chemistry and possibly lithium iron phosphate chemistry is not true of lithium manganese chemistry which is what is used in most e-bike batteries. For an authoritative source see the batteryuniversity.com website which mentions that the maximum number of equivalent full-charge cycles can be as much as tripled by charging to something well under 100%. This advice is not necessarily in the best interest of battery vendors.

    Since this video is about longevity and not top speed, it's instructive to ask how is it that manufacturers like Tesla can guarantee their car batteries for 8 years. The main reason is that they limit the typical charge to something like 80% of maximum voltage.

    80% voltage of a 36 nominal volt LiMn battery is 40V, and for the same chemistry 48 nominal volt battery it's 52.0V.

    The BMS circuit that monitors the individual LiMn cells strung in series (10 cells that are rated to 4.2V in a 36V string, 13 in a 48V string) will usually not allow the overall battery voltage to fall below approximately 30V or 40V or so. Below whatever the preset threshold happens to be, the BMS will simply prevent the flow of current through the discharge ports. So "flat" in the context of lithium manganese batteries doesn't mean zero voltage, it just means the battery has gone into self-protective mode. Usually if these batteries fall to 0% they are toast, but that should never happen if the battery is not defective. By International regulation these batteries are allowed to be shipped with as much as 30% of maximum voltage. Any BMS will leak, but the quality ones will leak very little, for example right now I have three batteries which were stored for well over a year at less than 50% maximum voltage and all three pass a discharge test which is close to their rated ampere- hours capacity.

    Some BMS's are of low-quality and not only will they leak at a higher rate but they will also fail to balance (try to equalize weaker cells before charging proceeds) cells unless a full voltage charge has been applied. This appears to be the source of the advice that some battery vendors give such as that you should occasionally, say monthly, charge to 100%.

    Apart from leakage another risk is battery overheating when the low and maximum voltages are approached at the same time as significant charge or discharge currents are present which can cause violent fires. Manufacturing defects as well as wear can encourage this. Personally I never charge lithium manganese batteries indoors, not even when the outside temperature is 0 Celsius.

    This is not to say that manufacturers of complete systems such as Shimano, Bosch and Yamaha are reckless. If may be that their BMS circuits and chargers approach the sophistication of those made by the car manufacturers. But they are so secretive that it's practically impossible for the ordinary consumer to know what's going on. ( I was very impressed by a Bosch system that spent several hours in the ocean and after two weeks in a dry room started to function again.)

    This also is not meant to say that if you are making a longer journey than usual that you shouldn't charge to 100%. It's not a single maximum charge that reduces longevity, it's the cumulative effect of doing it all the time that does. Apart from battery longevity or rather lack thereof higher voltage will generally result in a faster speed or more sprightly feeling. The safe way to obtain faster speeds is simply to use a much higher voltage such as 72v. By safe I mean safe for the battery not necessarily safety from the authorities. But again this option is not really available to the ordinary consumer.

    Besides avoiding full charges whenever convenient my experience over the last 10 years or so has been that it's best to buy a battery that's big enough so that your normal trips don't use more than 40 or 50% of its capacity. But like voltage, a percentage is just a ratio so it might not apply to everybody, for example if your normal trip requires all the capacity of a 10lb battery you may not be keen could carry an extra 10 lb around in the form of a bigger battery. My trips average about 3 lb battery capacity so I don't much notice the extra weight of a five and a half pound battery.

    Finally, I'm not saying that everybody should take my advice. Some riders I know ride only for sport and have the cash to buy a new battery every year without a second thought. Whereas the only reason I use an e-bike is that I happen to live on the lower edges of a mountain and I'm too old and feeble to manage a 10% grade under my own power, especially when hauling groceries.

  17. I've had problems with the contact points, on and off for 12 months on my giants. On 3 batteries, So I guess I need to start cleaning the battery regularly . Has anyone else experienced this?

  18. Sorry guys, but some of your advices make no sense at all. Batteries of this size always have BMS. It takes care for overdischarge protection. It will cut out before reaching dangerously low voltage. Both BMS and charger make sure your battery doesn't get overcharged during charging. It doesn't really matter for how long it will stay connected. Battery storage charge should be around 50%, not 80%. That's too high. More than 60% is not good for the battery if is won't be used for months. You should check it from time to time and add a little charge to keep it at around 50%. Lithium batteris have no issues with cold in terms of damage. They just don't provide their full capacity and at around -25C you get nothing out of them. As soon as they warm up, they work as usual. One reason Tesla has cooling and heating in their battery packs. It is to provide maximum capacity for use.

  19. Finally, some solid useful advice…thumbs up friend. I'm sharing to my Facebook page so other bikers can hear your good words…

  20. So even if my battery is at 75-85% when i get to work then i shoud l shoud charge it?`After waiting ca 30 min off course.

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